Thread tension is the balance of force on the threads that eventually form the stitch. Too much tension can cause seam puckering, unbalanced stitch formation and uneven stitches. Too little tension can leave you with loose, uneven stitches and excessive looping. Without the right amount of tension, seams can become misshapen or susceptible to unraveling. Together, these properties contribute to seam strength in a garment.
SPI, specifically, is used in formulas for common stitches to determine how much force a seam can resist before breaking. This knowledge is important because it allows for pass-fail testing of your garments during inspection based on quantitative measurements. The estimated seam strength formulas for two common sewing stitches used in manufacturing are:.
Multithread chain stitch: SPI x thread strength lbs x 1. Lockstitch: SPI x thread strength lbs x 1. You may not need high seam strength in a silk scarf, for example. But greater seam strength is usually very important to the functionality of construction work gloves.
Variations of these stitch types are further distinguished by digit endings within that group. For example, lock stitches are the class category. Sometimes thread count separates these stiches and, in other cases, style. No matter the difference, by using these standard industry specifications, it becomes much easier to communicate with factories and designers about your stitching needs. The chain stitch falls into class and is created when two or more sets of threads come together in a chain-like pattern.
One or more needle threads penetrate the material being used and form a loop underneath it. Chain stitching is used frequently on decorative parts of clothing or anywhere else that needs an aesthetic touch-up. When sewn properly, it can leave an ornate, thick and textured line. But the beauty of chain stitches often comes at a cost. Seams joined with chain stitching often unravel easier. And the amount of extra sewing time for garments where chain stitching is used can add up, making this stitching type more laborious than others.
These are important traits to consider when choosing to use chain stitching in garment manufacturing. The multithread chain stitch , or double locked chain stitch, falls into class The resulting stitch looks different on the top and bottom of fabric.
It can be used for elastic in waistbands, jackets, blazers, T-shirts, decorative stitching on belts and more. Some clear disadvantages exist with the multithread chain stitch. And if a thread is damaged, the stitch can unravel easily, which might threaten the integrity of an entire seam.
Many garment manufacturers prevent this by over-sewing or bar-tacking the seam for added reinforcement. Also known as single needle stitching, the class lockstitch is made when two threads lock together at minor intervals. On the inside and outside of the garment, this stitch will appear the same, whereas a chain stitch and multithread chain stitch will vary in these two areas.
The lockstitch can become very tight, such as the twin needle lockstitch. Not all lockstitches are appropriate for the same purposes. Some classes of lockstitches, like and , are good for dress slacks and waistbands. Others, like the zigzag lockstitch , are more appropriate for decorative stitching or particular parts of athletic wear. The suitability of a certain lockstitch for a garment depends on the stitching properties a customer requires.
The class overlock stitch goes by many other names, including overedge, overlock, serge, overcast or merrow. One group of thread goes around the edge of the fabric so that the threads from it are contained, which typically reinforces the inner stitching. The overlock stitch is relatively flexible and often used for edge neatening of knitted fabrics.
Aside from these applications, the stitch is also used on the edge of garments for added aesthetics and to prevent fraying. On the negative side, the overlock stitch is known for its very high thread consumption. But despite needing more thread for overlock stitches, overlock stitching machines are typically able to sew garments faster than other common sewing techniques. Stitches play a vital role not just in seam strength, flexibility and appearance, but also in the length of sewing cycles and cost of manufacturing.
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